Saturday, November 24, 2012

S21 and the Killing Fields

After being there for only two days, I don't think I'm in a place to give a thorough review of Cambodia's capital. I can, however, relay my experiences and perceptions of the city as I saw it in what little time I spent there. Phnom Penh was very different from Siem Reap. Generalizing, it felt much seedier, but worth the trek. Begging children and families were everywhere. The kids selling their souvenirs were far more aggressive and seemed hardened. Creepy looking older western men were ubiquitous, as were the prostitutes hanging off of them. I felt the least comfortable here than anywhere I'd been throughout the summer. It may have something to do with the fact that we were down to only two of us from our original group of seven in the beginning. We arrived at night and roamed the streets hunting for a suitable hostel. After two hours and a lot of frustration, Lindsay and I agreed on a place. It was tiny and dingy, but not as scary as some of the hostels we had walked away from. We were both getting pretty grumpy, but it was fine once we had settled in. 

On our only full day in the city, we began at S21 or Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. It was originally a high school, but was converted into a prison during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975-1979 where thousands of innocent civilians were detained and tortured. Being there was an experience like nothing else. I was shaken to my core and felt physically ill. I could feel an energy walking through the rooms. It was as if the pain of the atrocities that took place had been absorbed into the building itself. I could just feel it. It was bizarre and scary and overwhelming. 

After S21, we went to the Killing Fields, a mass grave where the victims of torture were brought after being at S21. Thousands and thousands of bodies are buried there. You can still see bits of bones and clothing coming through the dirt.  That stories that I read and heard that day were unbelievably horrific and I still can't begin to fathom how or why something like this happened. Lindsay and I talked a lot about our experience in the following days. I don't think I've ever been so affected by something in my life.

Later that evening while out, we met some other people who had been to the killing fields that day as well. We talked about it some more and our conversation eventually turned to the state of Cambodia today. The poverty, the prostitution, the people's way of life in general... and the people who go there to exploit the women. The layers of issues in that alone are beyond my comprehension. If anything, I realized how ignorant I am to the world I live in. I have definitely grown up in a bubble. But I'd never been more thankful and grateful for the life I have been granted. The childhood I experienced is worlds apart from that of most Cambodian children. Sex tourism is prevalent. What is technically illegal, seems to be readily accessible and acceptable. And this is only what is on the surface. The thought of what exists in the underbelly makes me shudder. 
















The more I see, the less I know.






Monday, November 5, 2012

Siem Reap, Cambodia

I wasn't quite sure what to expect when arriving in Siem Reap. The airport is new and clean and fancy. The Visa process, organized and efficient. Colour me surprised. And I'd only been in the country for 15 minutes. We got picked up in a luxury tuk tuk (if there is such a thing) by someone from the guesthouse that Jennie had booked. When she had organized the hostels for her and Lindsay, I was still unsure if I'd be traveling with them so she didn't include me on the booking. The only room they had left upon our arrival was the "superior" which included a bath tub (score!) and a queen size bed for $15 a night. Oh, darn.


After dropping off all of our stuff, we hired a tuk tuk for the afternoon to take us to the "floating village". It turned out to be a pretty expensive day, but it was really cool to see. 


Snapped from the tuk tuk on the way to the village.


Boat for three.

Fishin'


The village's high school






The houses are built on stilts because the water rises significantly during the rainy season. Villagers all use boats to get around no matter what the season. 

"Street meat" equivalent?

Stopped here for lunch. 

Hours and hours in the tuk tuk.





Our second day in Siem Reap was day one of temple hopping. 

Hey, there. 




Our tuk tuk driver, Som, also acted as tour guide/historian. He was full of information. Born in 1968, he's lived through four different regimes in Cambodia. I knew next to nothing when we arrived in the country, but the more I learned the more ignorant I felt. 

I gave her my bracelet. She seemed unimpressed with the fact that it wasn't money.



Little kids hawking souvenirs everywhere. At one point I just stopped and watched this little girl for about 15 minutes. During which time, I heard her speak 3 different languages. I found a brochure at our guesthouse that had information about the importance of not buying anything from these kids and not giving them money. They're not in school and they're working full time either for their parents or some other adult bossing them around and taking whatever money they collect. 

We went to so many temples that I lost track of which one was which. Our first day we visited Bayon, Preah Khan, Neak Prean, Ta Som, and East Mabon. 










Som


Ta Prohm where parts of Tomb Raider were filmed. 























August 12th - "Sitting at Angkor Wat watching the sunrise by myself along with thousands of other people." I took it easy the night before and set my alarm for 4:30am. Som picked me up and brought me to the mother of all temples. 



Apparently "the" spot to be during sunrise.



































I went back to the guest house after my solo mission to have some breakfast and get a couple more hours of sleep. Later that morning, the three of us went back for more temples including a second trip to Angkor Wat. 





















Hi Jennie, bye Jennie. This was taken on Jennie's last day before she had to head back to Toronto. 
And then there were two.
 Lindsay and I hadn't planned the rest of our trip, so we ended spending a couple of extra nights in Siem Reap. 

Pub Street


New friends

We finally made arrangements to move on to our next destination, but we had a full morning left to squeeze in some more temples, Banteay Srey Butterfly centre, and Cambodia Landmine Museum.








The Landmine Museum shook me. Aki Ra, the man who opened the museum, was a child soldier for the Khmer Rouge (more on that later). The shells shown here are the result of his work clearing active landmines in Cambodia. The museum also serves as a home and school to disadvantaged children who have been affected by landmines. If you want to read more, go to http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/menu.html


There's absolutely no way I could put into words the feelings I experienced in Siem Reap. The stories that Som shared along with the incredible sights I was fortunate enough to see... it was easily one of my favourite parts of the summer. I know I'm not doing the experience justice, but it was indescribable, so this will have to do! Next stop, Phnom Penh.